Route 61

We spent the first night in Greenville and the next morning we drove out to Leland to see the Blues museum there. From Leland we happened to find out that the BB King museum in Indianola had just opened up. We backtracked and went to visit that museum.

The BB King museum was a remarkable testament to the life of an amazing man. Unfortunately time has claimed many of the most interesting artifacts leaving replicas or similar pieces for the museum to show. However, the most interesting parts are the video clips, interviews, and sound bytes. They are what really give the visitor a glimpse into the heart and soul of BB King. They show how caring and compassionate a person he is. I began to realize that he looks at all his fans as his children or grandchildren treating them with the same reverence. I find that to be a very admirable quality for someone of such fame as it is only too easy to become a jaded star in this age. In retaining this characteristic Mr. King also has managed to stay very close to his roots and returns to his hometown once a year to play free concerts.

From Indianola we headed north towards Clarksdale. On the way we happened to drive by a cemetary, which had the grave of another great blues guitar player, Charley Patton. I don't have any of his music, but I will be trying to find some. As we drove on we popped in a CD by BB King (Live at the Regal) and listened to some of his music. Earlier we had been listening to Leadbelly as well as Lightenin' Hopkins. The thing that I enjoyed most as I was listening to the music was as we drove through the region I really began to feel the music. It was somewhat hot (not July in the South hot) and we were driving along on empty roads. If I closed my eyes I could see Robert Johnson, Leadbelly, Muddy Waters, Willie McTell, or whomever walking along the side of the road with their guitar thrown over their shoulder. It's amazing how little the countryside has changed since the 1930s. With the exception of paved roads and perhaps more power lines or telephone lines I would be surprised if there is much difference. Whatever the reason I know that I'm immensely grateful that we did not take the Interstate and instead meandered our way along state highways.