Do you know the blues?

Mon morning in Atlanta I decided that before I leave I wanted to stop by an old favorite restaurant for some quality soul food.  I drove to the restaurant only to find that it was closed on Mondays.  Oh well, near Georgia Tech there is another soul food place that wasn't too far and across the street from it is a great Cuban sandwich place.  As I parked I noticed a gentleman playing a guitar across the street and it was rather engaging to listen to him.  However, being on a bit of a time crunch for my flight I had to decide quickly where to go eat.  I could eat a sandwich and listen to the music of this street corner player.  Or I could go get my soul food.  I chose soul food.  The food was great, but that is secondary.  After leaving I was getting in the car when the musician called to me, "you look like you haven't heard any good ole Mississippi Delta blues."  I had half a mind to get into a debate with him, but I thought I would just see where I was being led.  I asked what he said and crossed the street to hear it again.  He offered to give me an impromptu performance in the blues and got right into it.  I don't know whether he was the best musician, but he certainly had a lot of charisma.  This was my classic southern experience that I have been imagining for years...a gruff looking bluesman playing some good ole blues on a street corner near some amazing soul food.  When he was done he detailed to me the basis for his laments and pulled his shirt back to show a growth the size of my fist, "it's cancer," he stated matter of factly.  He said again how he needed 16 dollars and he could stay in a nearby facility.  I decided to give him my change and a dollar, but then I thought of something else.  I told him I'd return in a second from the car.  He began to sing about coincidences in a song that I had heard when I first parked.  That was when I remembered the book I was halfway through, The Celestine Prophecy, which talks exactly about being aware enough in life to see the coincidences are not just that (instead they are more we just don't know it).  I decided that I didn't need my book and I would give it to him with a Smile Card.  I approached him again and offered the book asking whether he liked to read.  He responded that he did and accepted it.  i told him that there was something else in the book for him, but he would have to read it to find it.  After giving him a dollar and some change I proceeded to drive to the airport. 

A few hrs later on the flight as I sat there bored out of my mind (since the DVD I rented didn't play on my laptop) I wished I had the book to read.  Then I decided it was better off with him. 

The real last dispatch from Lima...

I wrote this waiting at the airport and forgot about it in my drafts folder so here it is...

Well I'm at the gate after a slightly rushed trip to the airport.  The thing is today was Secretarys Day (or Administrative Professionals Day if you live in the States) and on top of that I needed to talk with the guy who had me come down about my report (and he was recovering for most of the afternoon from a one day trip to a high altitude mine).  The original plan was that I would discuss the report in the early evening, attend the Secretarys Day bar run, and take a taxi to the airport.  This was fine until we realized that the Secretarys Day bar run was at a bar 15 min from the office by taxi and was scheduled for 15 min before my taxi was scheduled to pick me up at the office.  Long story short Secretarys Day was moved to a restobar (restaurant/bar) next door to the office where I had a drink with my team and all was well.  I caught my taxi and that's where the real fun began.  As he was driving me to the airport (none of which looked familiar from nearly 3 weeks earlier I realized I need to go to the bathroom…BAD.  Now I don't have the bladder of a 95 yr old grandparent, but this was a dire situation.  I had finished a bottle of water and 1.5 pisco sours at the bar.  I was seriously contemplating rolling down my window (to make enough noise) and going in the bottle.  I asked the driver how much further we were going to be…he said 10 min.  As soon as we got to the airport I corralled the equivalent of a Skycap so he could maneuver my stuff.  As he took me towards an entrance with a big line I told him in slightly urgent Spanish, "Necessito ir al bano, ahora."  Now I know your all might not speak Spanish, but you understand that.  All you need to see is bano and ahora and it makes sense.  Grammatically correct or not he got the picture.  He swiftly navigated my luggage further and got me to an entrance with minimal traffic.  Once inside he took the lead and got me to my desired destination…un bano.  Normally I would be hesitant leaving my bags with a stranger in a foreign country, but in this case I did the math…I have the laptop, passport, and wallet…the bags have clothes…and the wedding stuff…I'm not worried.  He said he would wait and I took his word.  When I came out he was still there and we proceeded to my check in counter.  At the check in counter we parted ways and I gave him the smaller of the two bills I had in local currency remaining…it was likely a big tip, but I didn't care for the service he rendered I would have paid far more. 

Last dispatch from Lima

Well I think this will likely be my last post from Lima (for now). The next post will likely come from Atlanta or the Bay. I have to say I'm excited to go home, but more b/c of family and friends. I thought I would make a list of things that I'm excited about and things I'm not excited about.

Things that I'm excited about:

-Seeing the HyWy (HELL YEAH!)

-Calling the rents and not having them worry about who's paying for the call.

-Hanging out with friends for dinner, drinks, or anything instead of by myself or with coworkers.

-Having more than a few pairs of clothes to choose from

-Wearing a tshirt (in my haste to pack I forgot tshirts)

-Cooking

-Drinking tap water

-Knowing that when I dial a phone number it will go through without adding several extra 9s

-Driving

-My bed!

-Practicing espanol with anyone

Things I'm not excited about:

-Driving

-Higher prices for everything

-Paying for things with my own money (ie not being on a per diem)

-Having to drive 15 min to get food from the office

-Going to a Laundromat (as opposed to leaving my clothes for housekeeping).

Anyways that's just a little bit of it. I think the experience of doing this blog has been a lot of fun and now the real question will be can I keep up with it when I'm at home. Stay tuned. Adios for now from Lima.

Forget Garbage Man I want to be a Mass Gardener...

When I was younger if you asked me what I wanted to be it was often a garbage man.  I liked the big trucks and I know I liked the idea of hanging on to the back of the truck as it drove around (as opposed to "just sitting around all day" like an engineer, yes that is a direct quote from a 5 yr old me).  In this day though when I see one guy going along and using a mechanical arm to pick up cans I think it's not that attractive anymore.  It's somewhat like playing a video game and there is no fun of hanging off of a truck.  However, with the "demise" of one dream job I have found another.  It didn't occur to me that with the lack of rainfall how would plants get water in public areas down here in Lima.  I know that big grassy areas probably have sprinklers, but what about the random trees and such that line a road.  The other night while going to dinner I was in a taxi stuck behind a big truck and I didn't know what it was doing, but I could hear a lot of water falling.  Finally I was able to see as it went around a turn...it was a giant water cannon truck, literally.  The truck was a big water tank and right at the top was a guy who stood in a little enclosure (so he wouldn't fall off) and he had a huge water cannon that he would water the trees and plants with.  I cannot tell you how excited I got at the idea of working one of those trucks.  I really would love to bring some little kids down here (definitely thinking about the Dogson) to show them this as I haven't seen it anywhere (for obvious reasons).  In Houston they had trucks that would drive around late at night and spray mosquito repellent or something, but that's not that exciting.  So my faith that little kids everywhere will have cool looking jobs to look up to has been restored. 

Safety is our Numero Uno concern...

You can see three exit signs in this picture. My cube is directly in front of the camera (you can see a bit of my laptop). If I looked to the left from where I was taking my photo you can see two more signs.

Came in this morning to see these plates covering the fuseboxes off...so much for heeding the warnings.

Now I think this is overkill. This is by the elevator.

Looking down the stairs in the stairwell.

Taking safety to a new level...

So on Friday in the office there was talk about an impending inspection and the maintenance people were in full swing to bring everything up to par.  There were boards and boards of safety signs.  The inspection didn't happen on Friday and it happened today.  Today and Saturday as I looked around the office I noticed signs everywhere warning me about everything (in Spanish).  As I sit in my desk there are no fewer than 4 signs telling me how to get to the one exit on that side of the office (which itself is about 30' by 30').  In my mind figuring out how get out of our office is about as hard as figuring out how to leave a three walled room.  I can hear the reasonable people thinking about how hard it would be to get out of the office if it were on fire so I can accept that.  However, there is a sign on every fuse box, emergency exit, stairwell, and more.  Someone suggested to me today that I take pictures of the office to convey how absurd the situation is and I plan to do that in the next day or so.  I was just contrasting this with the home office and how looking from my cube into an office about (60' by 80') I might see 3 exit signs (at most). 

Then there is the nightlife culture from my experience going out the other night.  In the States when we go out we buy by the round...usually.  Sometimes we'll pay for individual drinks, but usually if we came with someone then we are at the very least buying by the round for that person.  Saturday night at the bar there were 5 or 6 of us and everyone was so adamant on paying for their own drinks it amazed me.  Even those that were related and came together would only pay for the drink they had.  The one time I managed to finagle my way into buying a shot for someone they immediately returned the favor with one for me. 

I'm sure there is something else I can write about, but it's not coming to me and I'm too distracted now. 

Solo exploring

After a night out until well past last call at San Francisco bars I was struggling to get out of bed much less out of the hotel.  I finally was forced to leave so that they could clean my room (if it was up to me I would have told them to skip the cleaning).  In a way I'm beginning to feel like some of these celebrities of years gone by that would just live continuously in a hotel (mostly b/c of the living in a hotel thing and not so much b/c I have any sort of celebrity status). 

When I finally managed to leave the hotel I went to Central Lima where there is a Franciscan Monestary (I've emailed photos out to most of you, but as with the last set of photos if you haven't gotten any and you want some drop me an email).  It was an interesting plaza when I reached there that clearly reminded me of Notre Dame in Paris, but much much smaller.  When I paid to get in I sat in a waiting area for an English speaking tour and was surrounded by people who were going on one of the more regular Spanish speaking tours.  Overall this experience has been one of living in the minority (from a language standpoint) and that has been really interesting. 

Ok this post has been scrapped.  I'm posting it since I wrote it, but it's about me going around like a tourist and you can get those stories in person.  The good stuff is the random observations from my day.  Posting again immediately...

Indian food in Peru!!!

Yes it is true.  Not just Indian food, but quite reasonably good Indian food.  Now if I was in the Bay Area or somewhere with better food I likely wouldn't look at this place again, but out here where there is nothing I'm very grateful.  The person only does catering, takeout and delivery.  We ordered chana masala, chicken tikka, aloo gobhi, jeera rice, and some chapatis (it didn't occur to me until later that he couldn't do naan b/c he didn't have a tandoor).  The food was surprisingly not creamy (my typical image of restaurant Indian food), but of course we didn't order much that would have been creamy.  I was most amazed by the chana which was rather watery (as compared with what I make), but was pretty good.  The owner also mentioned on his website that he would make anything if someone requested it if he could and he has kichadi so I think I'll be trying that this week at least one day. 

Today I plan on doing a little bit of work and then also going shopping for a few gifts as my return trip draws nearer.  I'm sure there are some observations or interesting tidbits I could pass along, but I honestly don't remember anything. 

The power of intention...

I had two very different meals today.  One was simple and accompanied by company, laughter, stories, etc.  The second was quiet, more fancy, and at the same time more cold/impersonal. 

The project manager for whom I'm working on the project that I'm in Lima for has a wonderful heart and he's extremely lively.  He speaks a little bit of English and I speak a little bit of Spanish.  We both communicate through a translator and along the way we have both learned a little more of the other's language.  Yesterday he was very excited and told me that he wanted me to come have dinner at his house in the next day or so.  This immediately grabbed my interest as I'm working hard to get the real Peruvian experience.  I was also interested because he works extremely long hours and has no family in Lima (his family, wife, children, etc. all live in Arequipa) so I was curious to see what his life was like.  In my opinion he is not living a life very different from mine except his family is closer, but he goes quite a long time without seeing them.  I came to work today and he told me that he had made me lunch and wanted to have it with me in the lunchroom.  I can't convey my surprise not to mention my happiness.  I have never had someone bring me food in such a giving way.  At lunch time we went downstairs to get our food ready.  He opened a plastic bag and pulled out four containers (2 for each of us), a big bottle of juice, and two little Clementine oranges.  The first course was a peanut curry sauce over potatoes, cabbage, and a hard boiled egg.  The second was a chicken breast over spaghetti with a little sauce.  I dug into the food and was loving it when I decided to try the juice.  I poured a glass and it was amazing.  I immediately asked him what it was.  I thought it was lemonade, but wasn't sure.  He said he didn't remember, which was the first sign something was afoot J.  He smelled it and said that it was apple juice.  I said it was a very different tasting juice and he said it was diluted with water.  I accepted that explanation.  Then someone else came and sat down across from me.  He had exactly the same peanut curry dish as I did in exactly the same size container as I did.  Not sort of the same dish, but the identical one.  I asked him what was going on and the others at the table jumped on the opportunity.  After much laughter and backpedalling the real story came out.  The office's cleaning lady also doubles as catering lady to some of the staff and my PM was entering into some sort of business venture with her.  We all had a good laugh over the situation and how surprised we were when we thought he was making this much food when he goes home after 730pm and is in the office before 800am.  My coworker looked at me and said that he lied to me.  I said maybe so, but it was the thought behind his actions.  I probably could have been more upset, but when I saw with how much genuine excitement he wanted to get me food I couldn't help but forgive him.  So the real question here is what was the juice?  I have never heard of this, but it was the pineapple skin juice.  I guess it's not the juice of skin, but it's what results from boiling the skin apparently for a few hrs.  It was such an amazingly subtle refreshing taste.  I definitely can't wait to try this at home.  I'll have to find out from the cleaning lady how to do this. 

If you are wondering what my second meal was like I'll leave it at this: it was in the hotel restaurant. 

Bling bling

Me in all my safety glory after I got home that evening. The difficulty in getting this photo taken is that the screen doesn't work so I couldn't reflect off the mirror (b/c of the flash) and I couldn't get the timer to work. I was blindly hitting buttons to get a timer setting and then testing the camera. I was eventually successful and there I am.

Random things...

So I don't really have a post for yesterday, but instead I thought I would write about a random assortment of things. 

First I had a really good juice the other day that is a Peruvian specialty called Chicha Morada.  It's made from blue corn and is then mulled with cinnamon, cloves, sugar, and lemon juice.  It was served room temp or cold and was soo good.  The waitress couldn't explain to me what it was so I had to try to remember the name and tell my translator what it was later. 

Yesterday for lunch we tried another chifa and I think the verdict is in for me...they are overrated and taste like American takeout Chinese. 

It seems that there is little to no Indian food in Lima, but I have stumbled upon one place that provides catering, takeout, and delivery.  When I told my bosses they were both so excited that we are meeting up at one of their houses on Fri night for Indian.  I'm charged with ordering all the food and if it's bad guess who gets blamed:).  They were talking with me yesterday about how keen they are on my moving down and then they corrected themselves they repeated how they don't care about me, but are more interested in the hyphy wyphy (yes that is my nickname for her and no she doesn't mind).  They said that they would be willing to float the capital investment so we can come down here and start an Indian restaurant and they are convinced that the expat community would be enough to drive the business.  Will report on the Indian food later this weekend.

So I was moved to a new hotel yesterday and last night I went to my room for the first time.  To the unsuspecting eye it looks like a good hotel.  That is until one tries to go to sleep.  For whatever reason the window doesn't keep any of the sound of the street out.  I am staying on a pretty main thoroughfare and it sucks.  I guess b/c it never rains most of the windows that open in buildings in Lima are pretty much just single pane with little or no insulation around the framework.  I'm not sure if I have covered the love affair the average Peruvian driver has with their car's horn.  It is much like India in that sense so when the light turns the hand hits the horn as a reaction.  The horn is used all the time for anything.  I walked by a house the other day and they guy was sitting outside the front door on his motorcycle riding the horn.  So you can imagine what sleeping is like when you have non insulated windows and horn happy drivers.  Luckily for me I sleep very soundly, but I woke up very quickly too.  I'm definitely moving back to the old hotel. 

Este es todo para ahora. 

The Longest Day...

So at the end of the last post I was going to go to the mine site the next morning at the crack of dawn.  Actually before the crack of dawn.  In fact it was before the crack of dawn in the US even though I wasn't across the world.  I woke up at went to the airport curious whether I would be early enough, because I had enough fear instilled in me by the locals about when to get to the airport.  It turns out that I was there with plenty of time.  As two in our party sat there we wondered where the other two were.  The two missing people: the manager and main guy who would approve the calculations…this is going to be good.  As we are about to board the manager shows up.  We are convinced our fourth has likely slept in seeing that he arrived at midnight of the same night.  We are now on the plane and our fourth shows up. 

We arrive in Arequipa with enough time to see the square and grab some quick breakfast.  Our rental trucks are hardcore vehicles (we have two for 7 total people: 4 on the flight, 1 already there, and 2 drivers) with full roll cages inside the truck, flashing lights on the roof and a flashing flag that stands about 2 meters above the bed of the truck.  As we drive to the site (about an hr away) I'm noticing the area.  We are in the mountains and they are very dry and rocky.  I understand that when it is the rainy season the mountains are more green, but I'm not sure how green as they are extremely rocky and it seems like not good quality soil. 

Once on site we begin the entrance process.  I promise you when I say that I feel safer at a mine site then I do almost anywhere in the world (save just sitting in an empty room).  I also feel safer going into a mine site than I do getting on a plane (well maybe not).  The first thing we did was sit through a safety video (in Spanish).  I felt particularly relieved when they clarified that one is not allowed to bring in live firearms (they should someone unloading a pistol and turning it into security).  Then they made sure to point out that we can't be high or drunk (nevermind that we are at 2700m elevation so that'll take care of it).  Following the video we had to sign our name in 4 different places on 2 different documents.  We also had to leave our passports (in the foreigners case) or resident immigration/worker status card at the security office.  If you were unfortunate enough to bring a laptop then you had to have the serial number recorded.  Finally after no less than an hr we could enter.  Now mind you we didn't undergo any sort of search (hence why I feel safer flying). 

After we enter the next step was to have a physical.  I understand why they are so thorough (clearly a ton of liability at stake here, but still it amazes me) in case anyone is wondering.  The physical consisted of filling another form out taking my BP and checking my heart rate.  One interesting thing about the 'clinic' / medical facility was that here in the middle of this mountain that is all rock there was a little garden in front of the clinic.  There was grass, a bush or two, a small tree, a few flower beds.  In the back of the clinic was a 'patio'.  It was clearly a contrived attempt, but I had to give them props for trying. 

Finally we were cleared to go to see the facilities.  We started off with a meeting with the client.  That was uneventful.  Funny thing about mine site visits.  You get there as early as possible work all day and get the hell out of dodge so you can eat since it seems no one eats or takes a lunch break.  I guess they do, but we don't have time to.  So during the meeting they brought in a bunch of random chocolate snacks. 

The project itself was interesting and I'll spare you the details since this blog is about everything else.  Around 4 we finally got done and made it back to the security hut where I made sure I reclaimed my passport.  From there it was a hustle back to town to try to eat.  Arequipa is known for it's chicharron, which to me is literally just a pork rind (aka fried pork skin).  We stopped at a restaurant and had a massive plate of meat dishes that I couldn't describe.  Needless to say I think that meal gave me a coronary.  We made arrived at the airport barely 30 min before the flight.  I know a handful of people that would have been sweating through that car ride that are reading right now.  At the airport with no check in bags we were poised to make a run for the security until we found out that our flight was cancelled.  So we were rerouted.  This is where it got good.  We would go south to the Chilean border for 30 min then come back up north to Lima.  The total travel time would be over 2 hrs as opposed to slightly over 1 hr original option.  Eventually we made it home and to bed by about midnight. 

Most observations were included in the post this time, but one that I didn't write was what a different experience it is when you fly and the mountains are at your level.  I have never been approaching a run way and looked over to see the mountain looking me in the eye.  Apparently that's not the worst of it.  At the mines in the Andes you fly into and wind your way through a narrow valley.  One other mine I heard about is being built directly under the airport…guess who is going to move?  A second observation…on the way out going through security and the metal detector I had a lot of stuff.  I took a bin and in I placed: my cell, my pocket change, my hardhat, my vest, and my jacket.  Before going through I was asked to take off my bracelet (which never does anything).  I showed him I couldn't take it off.  Sorry you have to take it off.  Nope can't.  So he let me go through (with my steel toed boots) and the thing beeped.  He just waved me through.  Another reason why flights don't really make me feel safe. 

Sorry the post was kind of long, but it's good.  I'm tired.  Buenos noches.  

Trip prep...

So tomorrow I'm waking up at 215AM to catch a cab to the airport and then to fly to Arequipa.  Once in Arequipa I will be driving about an hr to the mine site of Cerro Verde.  I'll blog about that tomorrow.  Today's blog is about: the trip preparations.  I know it sounds mundane.  Lets go over the particulars:

Who: 4 people (including myself, a PM, a structural engineer, and another manager)
When: 3AM cab, 5AM flight, 8AM on site, 8PM home
Where: Arequipa

The staff has been joking that it is harder to break into Fort Knox than it is to go to a mine site.  I thought they were kidding.  They weren't.  There needs to be insurance for us going on the visit.  We have to have permission to visit.  We have to have passports and god knows what other paper.  We have to make a formal request to visit.  We cannot take any photos (they will take them and give them us).  What you ask might they be hiding at this site that is so protected?  Well it's a copper mine likely not much different than the world's largest hole in the ground.  However, we will not see any of that.  We are there to see the method of disposing of the waste or the unwanted by product.  It's a rather simple system.  You take the waste and separate it into sand and water.  The sand creates a dam, which holds a "pond" (ie the water).  The total area of this site is likely bigger than San Francisco.  The pond itself as I recall during the design a few years ago is bigger than San Francisco.  This is a big venture.  So back to the planning.  One person was charged with making the formal requisition, another for getting plane tickets, another for getting safety equipment, and likely another for filling out paperwork and getting us insured.  Now this is my list of safety equipment (mind you I was expecting a safety vest, glasses, and a hardhat to go along with my steel toed boots): orange vest, gloves, dark AND light safety glasses, and a heavy company logo emblazoned ski jacket.  I'm glad they gave me these things so I don't have to worry about getting my jacket dirty so that's good.  The funnier part was after I was given this gear and asked the guy if I can give it back when I'm done and he said no it's yours.  I laughed at him.  You've got to be kidding me.  I have two bags with me and no room for a hardhat.  I live in a 1 bedroom apartment where we are trying to get rid of things that we don't need I can only imagine the reaction that would result when I walk in with all this gear in case we have an emergency need to work on a local construction site.  I will say this though I'm damn happy I'm taking this trip for two reasons: I lugged these enormous steel toed boots on this trip for this visit (so I'm not leaving until I use them) and I get to see something that I designed in physical existence.  So there you have it.  Tonight when you dreaming sweet dreams of whatever (or whomever) you dream about think about me running around looking like a construction worker:). 

The noise...

I have never been to a rough pebble/large rock beach before.  I went there today and the noise was so fascinating.  It wasn't when the tide waves came in or when they crashed on shore.  It was when they washed back out to sea.  I don't know how to describe it other then to say that it sounded like millions of rocks moving in one motion.  I wish I could find a youtube clip of it and I would post it.  If I ever find myself in Lima again I will record it.  Tres interesante.

Searching for donuts...

Saturday was an interesting day...I forgot to tell the room service (yes that's what I called it:P) that I was going to sleep in so low and behold at 7:45AM they roll up with my breakfast.  I barely make it to the door and get it open in my bleary eyed state and she looks at this disheveled guy and knows immediately I should come later tomorrow.  Some how I manage to convey to her that she should come by at 10AM on Sunday.  I go back to bed immediately and don't get up until 9ish.  Even then it takes nearly an hour for me to get myself going...that was how badly I didn't want to work. 

I make it to the office and do some work before we head off for lunch.  Before going to lunch I learn that the network is going down at 2pm so I should just go back to the hotel and work from there.  This is a great idea, because I'm not sure if I have told you guys but there is massive construction going on in the office building.  It is driving me insane.  When I say construction I'm not talking about hammering I'm talking about constant drilling and pneumatic hammers.  Continuously.  Friday was abysmal.  I thought my head was going to explode.  I can handle the hammers, paint smell, and all the other noises.  What I cannot deal with is the drilling.  Somehow whatever frequency they are drilling at shakes me to the very core.  I'm talking worse than fingernails on a chalkboard which I can deal with.  This was like pure misery.  So Saturday lunch...yeah I had Inca Kola...it was good.  Interesting stuff.  Tastes kind of like bubble gum.  I know at least one person reading this is cringing and I know exactly who she is.  Back to the office.  Sorry about the disjointed post, but it's all stream of consciousness.  I leave the office and go back to the hotel.  I attempt to work and realize they are painting the hallway.  The desk is in line with my door and the paint fumes are coming under the door.  I go and lay down and pass out.  I'm out for 2 hours.  I wake up in time to get a call that it's now dinner time.  I swear this is all I do.  Eat.  Sleep.  Work.  Well until today, but you already read about that. 

We make it to Cafe Beirut, which has some great Mediterranean food.  I love it.  Falafal, hummus, tabouleh, etc.  Somewhere in our conversation during dinner I mention how walking around the other night I saw a Dunkin' Donuts.  I can hear the gallery.  I'm in Lima and I want Dunkin' Donuts.  Yes.  This past week there was a welcome breakfast for the new employees that had been promoted for a few weeks.  They were going to have donuts.  I was excited.  Then Friday I decide to come here.  Naturally, I'm disappointed.  I get over it.  Until I see it.  You know the sign.  I have a weakness for donuts.  There I said it.  So began the search for donuts.  I could have gotten by without searching and waited until I returned to the States.  However, my manager was adamant.  For lack of a better phrase he was on a mission from god.  I was given a tour of the area with the idea that we find a donut shop that he knew was in this mad tourist area.  The area was Parque Kennedy.  Lots of bars and restaurants.  We made are way through the park to a street known as Calle de Pizzas (Pizza Street).  It was literally that: a street of pizza restaurants.  Apparently it is preyed on by women of all kinds looking for tourists and looking of money.  So we went through and I wasn't impressed.  We continued on looking for a donut shop.  Along the way we made our way back to Larcomar.  At Larcomar we found a Dunkin Donuts only to find out that it was empty.  We began to head home along the water.  The manager stopped at his place and we continued on to our area.  Along the way we passed the Dunkin Donuts that I had originally seen and it was open.  My manager later asked me why we didn't get any.  I told him that it was midnight and those donuts had been made at least 15 hrs earlier; I could wait. 

So now a few mental notes I made along the way.  First it's amazingly safe out along the water at 11pm.  We've already discussed the cozy couples along the walk and there they were again.  I know if I was out this late at night along this stretch I would feel a little uncomfortable, but they didn't look it at all.  Clearly it was safe since there was regular police patrols and plenty of security guards in nearby buildings.  Next it was very clean.  As clean as many American cities and easily comparable to Singapore.  Finally on the walk from Parque Kennedy to Larcomar we passed some kind of electronics shop or computer repair place.  They had in front of their building embedded in cement old computer parts.  Monitors (without the glass), motherboards, and who knows what else sitting in cement on the ground in front of the shop.  Odd. 

Young @ Heart

I was just watching a movie in the hotel and I saw a preview for this movie.  It might be more entertaining if you know the songs that they are singing or maybe it is good all around just to see people having fun and singing.  Anyways I just thought I would pass it along.  Watch it, comment on it because I want to hear your thoughts? 

Lima by Day

So today I went out and explored the beaches and areas on the coast of Lima a little bit since I had some free time.  First things first since I'm too lazy too figure out how to post photos to this blog you have to go look at the photos that I have on Ofoto to accompany this post.  Sorry about that and maybe one day I'll fix that, but for now you can be happy that I even have photos.  If you are reading this and don't have the link to the photos as I only sent it to the handful of people I know are probably reading drop me an email and I'll send you the link.  So the first few photos are the view out of my manager's flat looking directly west to the ocean and the immediate area.  Keep in mind that his place (2 Bedroom, 2 story) is running about a $1K a month.  A pretty good deal if you ask me. 

From there we went to Barranco to see the surf area and check out what the other manager was up to (he's learning to surf).  It seemed a lot easier to surf here than it does back home that's for sure.  I think the main reason I didn't do it today was because it was very crowded and the big concern is where one puts there stuff.  If I was to go out I would likely cab over and I don't have anywhere to leave anything.  So the options are few (ie walk down with nothing and just the shorts/wetsuit) or go down with a car and lock everything up.  I didn't realize that bodyboarding was as big a deal as it is and I think I would like to eventually try that as it seems slightly simpler than surfing.  After checking out Barranco we caught a cab back to Miraflores. 

In Miraflores we walked around and checked out a few surf shops (all of which were closed).  We started walking back to Larcomar of which I took a number of photos, but I don't think any really capture the architecture (since I wasn't floating out above the ocean).  However, I did find one perfect one for you to look at and understand what this place is like.  Looking at this photo the restaurant that we ate at, which I thought was somewhat reasonably priced (if not the food then the drinks...6 bucks for a pisco) was kind of towards the left and right at the edge of the complex.  We had a nice table as you can tell from the photos right outside with a great view.  In the photo all the way to the right (about where it turns from grey to wood finish) is where Tony Roma's is.  I couldn't believe that a place like that could have a location like that.  I figured a location like that would go to something much nicer. 

So now for the part you guys are always waiting for (well that's what I like to tell myself)...the observations of the day.  First we were walking through Miraflores to Larcomar and I noticed here plus anywhere else that every home/apt building has a big wall in front.  The wall is then usually double spiked (spikes pointing down, pointing up, and on the inside pointing down in case you get in and then try to get out.  A few places had gone one step further and had employed high voltage fences.  Never seen that.  Another interesting thing I noticed was that the terraces were well utilized with nice furniture, which led me to ask what about when it rains.  I love the answer.  It doesn't.  Apparently it doesn't rain in Lima.  Not right now or in this season.  Ever.  According to Wikipedia the average rainfall is 0.3", the lowest of any large metropolitan area.  I have never heard of a place where it doesn't rain.  I know that there is Death Valley, etc. but in terms of normal places I don't think I have heard of this.  Maybe I'm the only one that this baffles.  It's the opposite of Singapore.  In Singapore you know that it's always going to rain without fail once a day.  Here you know that it's never going to rain.  Also when it does rain it's like a few drops or a mist.  Not even a drizzle just an occasional drop.  I was walking along the other night and I felt one.  I looked around wondering is someone joking?  Is someone shaking a cup or wet plate above me? 

There you have it.  I owe a post on last night and will probably work on that now. 

The Last King of Scotland...

I don't think that I have ever written a book review.  Well now that I think about it as I write this I think I probably wrote at least one during school. 

I finally finished the Last King of Scotland I was really captivated by it.  There is something about reading books and stories about things that happened when I was younger or during the immediate years before my birth that really interests me.  The feeling of captivation was similar to that which I felt when I read And the Band Played On, but that was even more so because that was so close to home.  In any case I think the charismatic yet disturbing portrayal of Idi Amin was what made the book so hard to put down.  Here I am in a new city on a Sunday morning and I wanted to stay in and read, but that's another post.  One of the points that they is given a great deal of attention throughout the story is the fact that the reason the protagonist of the story stuck with Amin for so long was because he was taken in by this incredibly engaging yet twisted person.  I think that the author did a good job of translating that to the reader, because I felt the same way.  At the same time I still felt like to some extent the author let the Dr. Garrigan's situation drag on a bit, because after a while I was thinking fine he is probably scared, but still he needs to face the wall that he has built himself into.  Overall though I think the biggest attraction to read the book and I imagine subsequently see the movie is to glimpse arguably one of history's most unusual leaders (if he can really be termed that). 

This "review" turned out to be shorter than anticipated because I left midway through writing it, experienced Lima by day, took photos, etc.  Now I want to upload them and blog.  I haven't figured out how to load photos into the blog and write about them in one post so you will have to deal with the photos being on Ofoto.  Sorry I'm too lazy to learn. 

Vamos a Barranco

First I had my first ceviche out here today. It seems that during the lunchtime there are restaurants that open only for lunch called cebicherias and they serve many different kinds of ceviche/cebiche. At the restaurant I found myself in the predicament of not knowing what anything is so I was going to pick something somewhat arbitrarily, but I asked the waiter what I should get. When I told him that I didn't know Spanish he went and got an English menu, but at the same time he sort of decided for me what I should get. Locally the Peruvian ceviche is one made with languado (sole) so that was what he brought me. My lunch looked almost exactly like this. Starting on the left is sweet potato, the big pile is the sole marinated in lime juice/garlic/chili, my meal didn't have the chili slices on it, and then at the bottom is the corn. All of this sat in a puddle of marinade and then I garnished with fresh lime juice. My favorite part was the sweet potato b/c it was sweet and sour, which was cool. Overall it was quite refreshing. My next goal is to get the classic Peruvian experience with Inca Kola (the local soda that really gave Coke and Pepsi a run for their money in the late 80s and early 90s) and ceviche. The second thing about the dish that stuck out was the corn. The corn kernels were the biggest ones I have ever seen (as big as a lima bean). However, they kernels were not the least bit sweet. In the evening discussing this with the office staff I learned that one of them who had sweet corn did not like it at all and thought that this was much better.

Sidenote: I'm still mixing up my Gujarati and Spanish as the other night I was talking with my father in law and kept saying si si.

Last night we went out after work to a different neighborhood than any I have been to so far. Bear in mind that my Peruvian experience thus far has been entirely at night. That's why I have no photos, because nothing will come out at night. My daytime experience is limited to the 3 or 4 blocks around the office, but other then that I haven't seen anything during the day. Anyways we went to a district called Barranco, which reminded me very much of Europe as compared to the financial area and my neighborhood which reminds me of India. The most amazing part of this was all the little bars, cafes, and pubs squeezed next to each other in narrow walkways. We crossed this bridge and on the opposite side turned left at the yellow building. After turning left the path led to an outcropping of sorts that looked right out onto the water. There were tons of people out selling jewelry, paintings, spray paint stuff, etc. The bridge crosses over a canyon that is about 60 ft down so on our way back we walked down there and there were more restaurants and bars. As we walked down the canyon it opened up again to face the ocean. A few observations...as before these areas were overrun by couples (as a group of 5 people we were in the minority), each bar had two to three guys (or women) who would try to sell you on their restaurant, bar, pub, etc. As we walked along they would come out of nowhere with discount cards and who knows what to convince us to go to their establishment. Sometimes they weren't even near their establishment and they would show up, give the sales pitch, and by the time they finished we were walking by their place. We had dinner at a club that was playing loud music, but no one was dancing until 11pm. We had sangria and pizza and then walked on. Another observation at a restaurant they won't make change unless you pay your bill. Even if you have eaten have the check, but just want them to break one of the bills they will take it, try to make change, and return and say they can't. Then if you give the check and all the cash they'll return with the change you wanted. As we walked looking for somewhere else to go there were these guys in the street that you could pay 1 sole (50 cents) and you could use their cell phone to call anywhere. I was intrigued by this and asked someone if I could call internationally, but alas that is not the case this is a domestic only operation.

At the next bar they had live Peruvian music (though I think it's more from Lima than anywhere else). We had piscos and coca sours while listening to this woman sing like mad. The real highlight though for me was that one of the instruments being played was a cajon. I'm not sure if many of you know or not, but I love the cajon, not to be confused with cajones. I have only seen it played live once before this and it just fascinates me. I'm amazed by the variations in sound that it produces and how it can sound like a full drum kit. I really want to see one up close and look inside it, but haven't had the chance. We finished up there and decided to head home in different cabs. Three of us took one and then the others took another one I think. One of our coworkers was beaten by a cab driver at night after she went to get cash so one of the girls with us asked if she could be dropped off first and then the two of us remaining could get off at the same stop since we were staying a block or two apart. I got home and passed out.

Titulos no necisitas titulos

Sorry for the subject, but I'm grasping here.  I walked to work today and it was nice.  I woke up about a half hr before I had to be at the office showered, ate my breakfast, and left.  Of course I got there late, because I was dragging a little today, but it is really nice being able to walk to work in 5 minutes.  Too bad there are no condos near the home office.  For lunch I went to investigate what I thought was a French sandwich shop, but it turned out to only be a deli that doesn't make sandwiches.  They had an enormous selection of pate, meats, and desserts.  I did go next door though to a grilled sandwich place and had a nice vegetarian sandwich.  It was funny though because they had these spreads (like a salsa bar), but I couldn't see them since they were in these metal containers (like for ketchup) and had they had names that meant I couldn't figure out what they were.  The sandwich came without any spreads these were the fixings.  The place was in high gear as it was the height of lunch time (1:30) so I couldn't just ask the staff.  Also everyone else was a bit busy as they rushed in to take their spreads.  I stood and watched some people to see what stuff was available and then tried some stuff at random.  The other problem was that I couldn't squirt a little and taste it since the stuff was pretty thick so after a while I would ruin my container (and each person was only given 2 containers).  It was challenging, but I prevailed! 

The managers were a bit worried about me walking around and not getting run over, but man this is only as bad as India.  I think the only thing worse is that the cars go faster (less cars), there are less other obstacles for the cars so they faster (no cows).  However, in my favor they tend to obey traffic signals more. 

A couple of entertaining sights I have seen but forgot to write about.  On the flight over I saw a Chinese lady (probably easily in her 50s) down two Stellas and at least one glass of wine with her food.  I was rather surprised at how she was putting this stuff away considering the flight was only 8 hrs so that means her drinking took place over a 5-6 hr period.  Then tonight I stopped in a really cool bookstore and there was a grandmother sitting in the back sipping on Heineken, smoking a cigarette, and doing a crossword.  This might seem unusual, but keep in mind that there was no bar in the place and it looked like she was just doing a newspaper puzzle.  So I had this image of a woman walking in sitting down, pulling out her Heineken, opening it, lighting up, and opening her paper out to play.  The coolest part about the store was the part next door was a really neat rare old book store.  I peaked in the window and checked out what looked like some cool stuff.

For dinner I made my way to a Crepe/Waffle place, which after looking it up online is a chain.  Damn!  It was really good though and they had an insane dessert menu.  The main reason I walked in was because they had a "Gandhi" crepe on the menu, but upon getting I was informed that they didn't serve it as they don't have tofu.  I didn't have my camera otherwise I would have taken a photo of my food though the presentation was not that spectacular.  However, for dessert I had a tartuffo de avellana (that's a tartuffo, sp?, of hazelnut ice cream) and damn if that wasn't good.  I think tomorrow night I will be investigating a touristy bar area, but apparently one street over is a less touristy area.  We shall see whether that is true or not. 

One observation I had while sitting waiting for my food is that it is definitely less of an experience eating by oneself.  Maybe others can indulge more or maybe it's b/c I'm tired, but I always sit down and want my food fast.  I should probably take a book with me next time, but I keep forgetting.  I saw this girl walk in to eat and it was funny you could tell immediately she wasn't like me (ie eating alone) she sat down and pulled out her phone to figure out where the hell is my friend.  She was sitting directly in front of me facing me so it was rather entertaining watching her.  She didn't look amused and kept craning her neck looking around.  Then she went through the menu and I have never seen a girl open a dessert menu and frown so that was funny.  Eventually her friend showed and I left since I was done. 

I heard one of the previous expats that was down here gained 16 lbs while down here for a month or two.  I hope that doesn't happen to me.  She did mention a restaurant that's at a museum and on the site of an archaeological dig so I hope she finds the name of that one.  I think that's about all for now. 

Buenas noches...

Que creas de San Isidro...

How’s that for espanol?  What you don’t know is that it took me a few hrs to formulate that sentence.  Well today was the first day that I ventured out on my own to have a looksy (as the expat from Chile referred to his trip to visit Santiago before moving there).  I’m fairly certain that the locals and the expats don’t mix and now for that matter neither do the expats and the other expats.  Contrary to my preconceived notions of what it is to be an expat everyone goes home around 7 on their own and it even seems that they spend their lunch breaks on their own.  Also since our office has only recently relocated no one knows where anything is.  Add to that that the operations manager is busy closing out his books for the previous year (or something like that) and the engineering manager doesn’t drink (self proclaimed former teetotaler) and you have one very bored expat right here.  I’m working to remedy the situation.  Today as I said I ventured out for lunch and just walked for a few blocks until I found the best dining area (TGI Fridays, Chili’s, and McD) in one area.  In some way the roundabout area reminded me of the Arc de Triumphe (sp?) in Paris as there were underground stairways to get to the center.  I continued in search of food and found a nice looking restaurant that served a two course meal with a pisco sour for effectively 8-9 bucks.  I was chatting with the waiter about what they had that was vegetarian and he mentioned that he works at another place that serves Mediterranean food.  It’s in Miraflores (another district) and apparently it’s not walkable so maybe over the weekend I’ll go in search of it.  I told him I’m staying nearby and I’m on the search for bars he suggested their bar and it’s open until 1am.  I’ve also located what seems to be called a beerhall so I think I will go seek it out tonight. 

 

I was going to go for a run to the waterfront this evening, but the hotel doorman suggested a near by golf course that I could run around.  I tried that out as he seemed rather concerned about me dodging cars on my run.  This was a good 2.5-3 mi run and along the way they have the old school exercise “machines” with just a bar and a plank to do pushups or sit ups, etc.  I also would like to experience the nightlife so I think tomorrow I’m going to ask some of the staff where I can go.  Es todo necessito comer y beber.  Buenas noche…

An unexpected path...

It is certainly interesting the people one can meet. Earlier today I wrote about the expats and their interaction with the locals. Tonight I went out to dinner with expats and learned some more.

One of the expats works as a manager at the office, but also owns and operates a documentary film company as his side project. He also shoots photography as his other interest. To add further coincidences he has major ethical problems with his industry (originally oil and gas). I found many similarities in him and some rather disturbing differences. He was rather interested when I told him my passion and we talked discussed analog vs. digital in a number of arenas (photography, music, etc.). He was quite excited and was showing me his work in photography. The really interesting part was that the same things that attract me to film draw him to film and the same reasons I dislike digital he dislikes digital. I didn't really expect to find a kindred spirit like this and was surprised even if we do tend to be so divergent.

We walked along the bay in Lima and as we walked the first place that came to mind was...not San Francisco...but Mumbai. Unlike San Francisco where the populated waterfront walking area faces another populated waterfront area (OAKLAND WHAT!!!); Lima has a curving bay and waterfront that doesn't face anything. So as we walked along the waterfront I remembered Marine Drive in Mumbai and I remembered the Santa Monica Pier area in LA. While we were walking on the waterfront we were up on 50-100 ft above the beach, which was an amazing view. Walking along we discussed Lima and the life down here. I have a feeling that if we wanted to (and if I rescue this project as they are hoping) I would have a shoe in for a transfer down to Lima. They are definitely short staffed with people that are doing my line of work and they are really giving me a hard sell. Anyways as we were walking along another thing that reminded me of India was the number of young couples catching private moments. I remember walking around the Hanging Gardens in Mumbai (though I'm sure one can find areas like this anywhere in India) and seeing couples everywhere I turned. It seems like in India, Liman (people of Lima?) couples often live with their parents for a while and during that time they need their alone time and that's where we found ourselves walking along. One of the guys mentioned a proliferation of "short-stay" hotels in Bangkok and "love" hotels or something like that in Tokyo.

From there we came upon quite possibly the most amazing mall I have ever seen. Now I can see many (ok all) of you rolling your eyes as you read this, but hear me out. Remember we are 100+ft above the beach at the top of a cliff. Cut into the side of the cliff is an outdoor mall (think Stanford Shopping Center or Bay Street with storefronts facing a common patio) that looks directly at the waterfront. I need to go back during the day and take pictures, because it was amazing. As it was pointed out to me the architecture was unbelievable (not that the buildings were that nice or anything), because of how seamlessly the mall integrated into the cliffside. We ate a Tony Roma's (manager's choice not mine) and that was ok. I did have a pisco sour (with the egg white foam) and loved it. They go down like a charm (then again I don't consider Tony Roma's to be the pinnacle of bartending) and I can easily see one leading to another to another. Finally it was 10:30 at night and we started to leave and I was amazed at how many people were still out and how much was still open (clearly I'm not in Kansas, Toto, or San Francisco for that matter).

It looks like I'll be working most of the weekend (Saturday in the office), but they have graciously agreed to let me off the hook on Sunday. I'm not kidding there was a moment they hesitated and wanted me to work on another job. If I'm off I think I'm going to go surfing with two of the expat managers. However, I do need to experience more local culture and I plan on investigating further once I have a cell phone (I should be receiving one tomorrow) so I can call locals up. It seems they like to give the expats cells and have them check in occasionally when they go out as a safety measure. Normally, I might scoff at that, but given that I'm effectively out here alone I think it's good. That's about it for now. Buenas noches.

A fixer?

Well as the first day winds down it's been pretty interesting.  I have a very clear understanding of why I am here.  One might say that I'm here as a fixer    . 

 I've been called down on a project that I worked on 2 years ago that is undergoing an expansion study.  However, for what ever reason the expansion study has not been moving forward with the progress that the powers that be would like.  The work is happening, but it's likely a little too slow.  To me there seems to be a clear division of power in the office with a few expatriates supervising a group of locals.  It doesn't seem as though there is any sort of local management and the expatriates don't speak or have much interaction with the staff.  There seem to be a few individuals that the expats deal with and through them they pass their input.  I feel like there is a certain degree of resentment by the staff towards the management, because they feel like their work is not noticed.  The staff seem to feel like the managers do not know what they do.  There is a strong potential for them to feel animosity towards me because I have effectively been called in to redo their work.  However, I have been able to find enough progress and quality in their work that it doesn't need revising.  In this line of thinking some of the expats have a imperialistic/holier than thou attitude.  A direct quote was, "India is a shithole, but the food is amazing."  I could have argued with that, but I didn't think that I would see eye to eye with the individual on the matter.  It seems like the expats lead somewhat insulated lives out here with someone suggesting Peru to be a, "pretty good Third World country."  It would be easy to assume that these attitudes are generated by a prevailing American mindset, but surprising enough I'm the only American.  Even more surprising is that those that perpetuate these mindsets do not themselves permanently reside in a First World country (i.e. US, Canada, UK, etc.).  Anyways so far this experience has certainly led me to be more skeptical, but we shall see…

PS: Sorry for being somewhat vague, but during the course of writing this I realized that it's probably in my best interest.

And so it begins...

So obviously this blog was started with a different purpose in mind, but now that I'm in Lima for 3 weeks I figured it would be a good place to post my experiences.

This trip is an interesting "new" experience for me. I've been on long trips, I've been on trips to places where I don't know people, I've been on trips by myself, and I've traveled for work before. However, I have never done all of these in one.

I flew out of San Francisco on Sunday 4/6 with the intention of ending up in Lima late that night, but that was not what the airlines had in store for me. I ended up missing my connection in Los Angeles and spending the night there to catch the same flight the next day. It was then that I began to realize what made this a different traveling experience than any before it. There was nothing familiar. Nothing personal. As I sat in a random hotel room with only my carry on bag watching TV I looked around me there was nothing that connected me to the room. I've stayed in hotel rooms before when I have missed flights or otherwise, but there is always something to bring me a sense of familiarity. Most often it's the presence of someone else or something simple like clothes. I'm not trying to say that I'm attached to these things. I'm just saying that having something that ties me to home provides a feeling that I have difficulty explaining. Anyways, all that changed when I met some friends for dinner and we had a relaxed meal at an Italian restaurant.

Sunday morning I woke up and went to catch my flight. Arriving in Lima late at night on Monday night I reached the hotel around 1am. My immediate priority upon arrival was not to go to sleep, but instead unpack my bags and make myself feel "at home". As I unpacked I realized that I didn't feel like such a transient anymore.

Now I'm waiting at the office. And so it begins...